Whenever I venture up to the Blue Mountains I look forward to taking that first deep breath and detecting a hint of wood-fire smoke. The crisp mountain air and hazy blue horizon make me feel as if it’s my duty to curl up with a glass of wine in front of an open fire.
For those who agree, Lilianfels, a Luxury
Collection Resort at Katoomba – only ninety minutes away from Sydney – offers a
lavish home away from home.
Before even setting eyes on Lilianfels, I
considered myself already acquainted. Its name is synonymous with luxury, rest
and relaxation, and it has won a myriad of awards, including being named
Australasia’s Leading Resort at the World Tourism Awards. Most recently, it has
been welcomed into Starwood’s Luxury Collection, which marks both the hotel’s
unique character and Luxury Collection’s debut into Australia.
Set within two acres of picture-perfect
gardens and overlooking the World Heritage listed Blue Mountains National Park,
Lilianfels is a popular retreat for singles, couples and families wanting to
trade their iPhone for me time. (Ironically, it was the diminishing reception
on my phone that reminded me I had arrived somewhere secluded.)
The design of the hotel is luxuriantly
cosy, filled with classic furniture, draping curtains, floral cushions and, of
course, a grand piano (complete with resident pianist). The deep bathtub,
fluffy robe and slippers in my room fulfilled my weekend vision of a snug
décor, and long, relaxing baths.
You could be forgiven for thinking that you
were staying at a friend’s country house as each of the 85 guest rooms is
individually decorated and themed in pastel tones of pink, green or lilac –
from the artistic wallpaper to the bedspread. Ideally positioned and
overlooking the valley, my room was the colour of your envy.
I was greeted by a devouring king-sized bed
– the kind that overwhelms you in its feathery pillows and airy duvet. The luxuries
continued with Peter Morrissey bathroom amenities, old-school turndown service
(complete with chocolate on the pillow), an infinite bowl of fresh apples in
the hallway and the paper at your door in the morning, easily scooped up en
route to breakfast – constant reminders that personalised service was valued.
Although I would have been more than happy
to melt into my bed away from the cold, Lilianfels’ ace card is its backdrop.
The majestic cliffs and towering escarpments of Jamieson Valley, home of the
Three Sisters, is a sight that never fails to silence. The track for a
thirty-minute trek into the wilderness begins at the front of the hotel.
With each step (and there are a few) you
descend further into the valley. I did look back resignedly at my return climb
a couple of times, however, the view from the lookout made every step
worthwhile. Warning: if you hover too long at the lookout you will consider
moving to the mountains. The stillness is all consuming.
For the sensible few who prefer to stay
warm indoors, it isn’t all wilderness and seclusion. In a matter of minutes I
went from being out-bush to enjoying an amuse-bouche at Darley’s, an award-winning
restaurant in the original historic house. Recently refurbished, the restaurant
has a rich, moody interior, made all the more dramatic by the angry
thunderstorm that was beating on the windows.
Executive Chef Lee Kwiez commands the
kitchen and was the mastermind behind my steamed John Dory with Dashi custard,
baby turnips, soybean congee, crisp lotus root and master stock. A mouthful to
say yet effortless to eat.
Dining at the hotel isn’t the only option
and the townships of Katoomba and Leura are minutes away by car. Leura, in
particular, plays the character of the quaint country town faultlessly. It is a
mecca for artisan produce, and cafes and boutiques line the main street. This
is where you’ll find the I-don’t-care-about-the-consequences handmade chocolate
at Josophan's Fine Chocolate shop and the historic Candy Store filled with
nostalgic sweets. I’m not a natural sugar fiend, but these two places alone are
worth the excursion.
After exhausting my adventurous streak the
day before, I fully committed to a day of pampering. I could have played tennis
or used the indoor swimming pool, which would have been wise considering my
recent sugar binge, but I opted for a massage instead. The practitioners pamper
from start to finish with the help of soft music, green tea and
lavender-scented air. After an hour of being kneaded into a semi-comatose state
I was amazed that I didn’t slip over considering I had oiled skin and limbs
like jelly. Mission complete, I was fully unwound.
The beauty of Lilianfels is that you can
spend the weekend being pampered and indulging in retail therapy or turn off
your phone, venture into the bush and escape modern life. The choice is yours.
After two nights, three baths, four wines
and five meals I was relaxed and rejuvenated. With all the fresh mountain air
now filling my lungs, I could have floated back to Sydney.
